Basically all I check for is fermentation. Buying wine in restaurants is supporting the establishment and staff send it back only if its vinegar.
Leave it on the table if you don't like it - order a different bottle - drink that one then the I promise you the original bottle will taste fine.
Also when the waiter comes back to the table they will ask why you ordered a second bottle you tell them you didn't like the first but its ok just leave it.
Most of the time a manager or owner will come over and remove it from the bill. If not who cares you are supporting your fav establishment!
Great bottle BTW Jax Cab just tried last night